The twin islands of Skellig Michael and Little Skellig float on the Atlantic twelve kilometres off the coast of southwest Ireland. They are remote, craggy and windswept – but they play a highly significant role in Irish history and culture.
The monastic site on Skellig Michael (sometimes called Great Skellig; Sceilig Mhichíl in Irish) was one of the wonders of early Christian Ireland. The monastery dates from the sixth century, when monks first sought communion with God in this place of extreme isolation.
It was abandoned in the twelfth century – but today the conserved remains of its beehive cells still perch on the rock eight hundred feet above the waves. Both islands are also linchpin bird sanctuaries – small wonder, then, that the Skelligs are one of Ireland’s three World Heritage sites.
Both islands are also bird sanctuaries Photo: AP/FOTOLIA
And now there's Star Wars.
Scenes from The Force Awakens were shot on Skellig Michael at various points in 2015. (The word is that Luke Skywalker took up residency on the island.) It's easy to see why the film’s producers chose such a glorious, elemental location – though not everyone was pleased: the closure of the islands for filming and the secrecy that enveloped the operation has not prevented consistent allegations of seabird deaths and damage to the site.
It’s worth remembering that the Skelligs are a thoroughly challenging destination. Landing on Little Skellig is not permitted; and Skellig Michael is only accessible from mid-May to the end of September.
Even then, access depends entirely on the weather, which can isolate the island for days at a time, even in summer – so, pray for calm seas. Here’s what you need to know – and may the Force be with you:
How to get there
Boats depart for Skellig Michael from Knightstown, Portmagee, Ballinskelligs and Caherdaniel: try Skelligs Rock (skelligsrock.com; €60 (£43) at Portmagee for daily 10am departures in season.
You must book in advance. The crossing takes between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours, and you’ll have two or three hours on the island.
Safety briefings are compulsory; and you should bring suitable footwear – from the landing site, it’s a steep and slippery 600-step climb to the monastic site. Bring all-weather gear too, plus sunscreen, food and water – there are no facilities of any kind on the island.
Do think twice about visiting if you have any health or fitness issues; small children are not encouraged to visit.
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It's a steep and slippery 600-step climb to the monastic site Photo: AP/FOTOLIA
A trip to Skellig, then, is not to be undertaken lightly! – but there are other possibilities. The Skellig Experience on Valentia Island (skelligexperience.com; €5 (adult); €3 for children; €4 for students/seniors; €14 for families) offers insights from afar; as well as daily two-hour boat trips (not landing) around both islands (€30; €17.50; €27.50; €85) in season.
Or simply stand on the Kerry coast, gaze at these two ferocious islands on the horizon – and imagine the monks on a stormy night, clinging to a rocky peak.
Ryanair flies daily from London Stansted and London Luton to Kerry Airport. Public transport to Portmagee and Valentia (for Skelligs) is extremely scant; plan instead on car hire.
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