The thing about Western Australia is that it’s just so far away from everywhere else – even the rest of Australia! There’s this one tiny sliver of civilisation, Perth and that’s pretty much it. That’s very much part of its appeal for me. The Margaret River area also has some world-class wine lands – and is just pumped up with small breweries. When I last visited I came across so many breweries that I just couldn’t visit them all, much to my distress.
Western Australia also boasts the most fantastic beaches. You have to, absolutely have to, get to the beach, even in Perth. (Half a dozen beaches are just a tram ride away.) My perfect day would start with a swim in the sea followed by breakfast (eggs, bacon and sausage) on a terrace by the beach. I’d then visit a couple of wineries in Margaret River, some of which have very good restaurants. In the late afternoon or early evening, I’d head out into the forest where, at the end of the day, you can often see wallabies and kangaroos. Lastly, I might cram in a quick beer at a bar – I always eat and drink too much when I go to this part of Australia.
There is a very good restaurant at the Vasse Felix winery (vassefelix.com.au) in Margaret River that I always recommend. The Smiths Beach restaurant (lamonts.com.au) is another old favourite. I had the best snapper there I’ve had in years – and it went down a treat with a glass of Cherubino riesling. And if you’re looking for a good place to sample some local ale, try the Fremantle Brewery (littlecreatures.com.au). To be honest, my perfect restaurant is just a rug laid out on the beach, with a spread of local cheeses, sausages and bread… and a couple of bottles of ice-cold rieslings.
They have a good art gallery and opera house in Perth. But the thing I most love about this part of the world are the fabulous open-air concerts, the most famous of which are held at the Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River. They attract world-class artistes such as the London Symphony Orchestra. And when the sun goes down it doesn’t get cold, unlike in Britain.
The wildest thing about Australia is the emptiness of the place. Once you get away from the one major city – Perth – and the few small towns, you can drive for an hour and not see another car or coffee shop. However, it’s hot, so just make sure you pack your SPF 50 sun cream – because believe me, you’re going to need it!
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For a spectacular view, head to the cliffs at the top of the bend leading to Smiths Beach Resort. You can see a long crescent of golden sand with the waves roaring in. And there is a wonderful coastal walk at Smiths Beach. To be honest, the coast is dotted with wonderful beaches, cliffs and campsites, so you’re spoilt for choice. But whatever you do, don’t go for a walk in the midday sun. I’d advise taking an early morning walk, or an evening stroll. It boasts the most wonderful sunsets, a bit like California.
One of my favourite drives in Western Australia involves driving down to Albany from Margaret Bay. If you follow the smaller roads, you come across these forgotten little towns and villages, many of which have their own small church, community hall and cricket pitch, and they are utterly charming. I also love surfing. You don’t really have to know how to surf – just go and roll around in the magnificent waves. It’s a thrilling experience and your body will just tingle with excitement from the power of the waves. Moreover, the water temperature is absolutely perfect. The last time I caught a really big wave, I came off it and banged into the sand, rather than the rocks thankfully, from a very great height. When I tried to move my shoulder, I thought: “You’re a writer, you need your right arm – it’s time you gave up this ridiculous surfing business!”
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The History of Wine in 100 Bottles (Pavilion) by Oz Clarke is out now. For more information about Western Australia, see australia.com; http://ift.tt/1OibUQ8.
Interview by York Membery
Reader offer: explore our range of luxury cruises to Australia with the Telegraph Travel collection. London departures start from £4,909, including 42 nights’ accommodation on full-board basis. Valid for travel in October 2016.
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